Engine
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3000M Oil Change (Essex 3.0L V6)
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Before you start
I realise this is a bit of an easy task to have an article about it, but there's not enough information out there in terms of workshop manuals to guide you, and you may be new to home maintenance.
Parts required - 5 litre container of oil, oil filter, sump plug washer (the plastic Ford type is standard - also fitted to later Ford Escort/Fiesta etc etc) - please always change this - it won't seal the second time round as it distorts greatly when tightened & heated by oil.
Tools required - Oil drain pan (should be able to hold at least 6 litres to be safe & to avoid spillage when pulling out from under car). Make sure container is either thick oil resistant plastic, or metal - oil can melt certain plastics! Plus plenty of clean rag or workshop grade paper towel, wrench or socket to fit drain plug. Lastly, although they may seem a strange thing to wear, get some latex surgical style gloves - used engine oil is a proven cause of certain types of cancer!!!
Car preparation - Car should be started for about 3 minutes to warm oil & assist drainage if you have limited time to do this change. Alternativeley, if car has not been started recently you may drain oil immediately (oil will have settled and therefore as much as possible is already in the sump), but allow extra time for oil to drain. Place car on a level solid surface (i.e. concrete), apply the handbrake, select first gear, and jack car in correct position to allow placement of two axle stands under appropriate chassis members. On the M Series chassis the best position is under the front outrigger which oins the central chassis spine to the sill tubes. You will see it has a vertical diagonal tube above it - this is the strongest position. You may place some card or rubber sheet between stand and chassis to protect the paintwork. Always make sure car is safe when lifted - if necessary ask for the help of an assistant to keep an eye on you while you're doing the change.
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Now follow the steps under each picture....
1. Oil filter is located under no. 4 cylinder at the front nearside of the engine. It is pretty accessible if you have a performance air filter fitted. If you have a standard air filter with the preheat pipe it may be easier to remove it - all depends on the car this engne's fitted in.
2. With a suitable container under it, undo the oil filter in an anti-clockwise direction. It is so large on this engine that it should turn with just the grip of your hand. If not, careful removal using a chain or strap type oil filter wrench will move it.
3. Looking under the car, locate the sump drain plug (arrowed). Place a suitable container below it and....
4. Undo it using a suitable wrench/socket. Again, removal is in an anti-clockwise direction
5. Make sure you don't drop plug in oil!
6. While oil is draining, clean up the sump plug and get out a new washer. Once oil is drained, fit the plug & washer, tightening to a torque of 20-25 lb/ft (or 27-34 Nm). Be very careful here - I once had a sump thread strip which meant sump removal & a week waiting for an engineer to fit a simple helicoil insert (that was in the early 90's - kits are now luckily readily avaiable).
7. Get out the new oil filter and inspect the seal & thread for damage (sometimes filters can be badly made or damaged in transit). Any swarf in the thread could find it's way to your bearings! Apply a bead of new engine oil to the rubber seal and spread to wet the full contact surface. If you've ever wondered why this is necessary, it is to stop the filter gripping the engine block's filter housing before it is fully tight - this could cause it to loosen or leak as soon as car is driven. Clean the coresponding filter housing, and inspect it for damage or pitting to the seal surface.
Another important tip is to check that the central threaded pipe is tight in the block - this can sometimes work loose so make sure it won't undo using a firm grip.
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8. Finally, fill engine with correct grade of oil, until you reach maximum mark on dipstick. Refit oil filler cap & dipstick, then remove central distributor cap or coil HT lead, and turn engine over until oil pressure shows on gauge. This prevents excessive wear due to the air that will be pumped around for the first few turns of the engine before the new oil reaches everywhere!
Replace HT lead, leave for 2 minutes, then check oil level again. You should notice that it's dropped due to the oil filter & oilways being filled.
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Top up as necessary. Now start engine, and leave running while checking around the oil filter & sump plug for leaks. If you encounter any, trace the fault & fix it before you finish - forgetting this could prove costly...
